Lac de Retournemer is the wildest of the Vosges lakes you can reach by car. Sixteen hectares of dark water framed by fir trees, no watersports, no beach — just silence, reflections, and the setting of an intact glacial cirque.
A preserved glacial lake
Retournemer is a glacial lake of Würmian origin, like its neighbours Longemer, Gérardmer and Blanchemer. Its 16 ha make it the smallest publicly accessible lake in the Vosges. Its altitude (713 m) and its position set deep in conifer forest give it a particular atmosphere: the banks remain in morning shade, and the reflections of the spruce trees on the calm water are striking.
The lake falls within the commune of Xonrupt-Longemer (Vosges, 88). It is classified as a protected natural site, which explains the complete absence of tourist facilities on its shores.
Why people come here
No pedalos, no refreshment stand, no lifeguard. Retournemer draws those who want raw nature: photographers, lovers of silence, hikers stopping off after the Longemer loop.
The reflections are especially beautiful in late morning and in autumn, when the occasional deciduous trees mixed with the conifers turn orange and gold. Wildlife is discreet but present: herons, kingfishers and occasionally deer at the water’s edge at dusk.
A viewpoint accessible from the D67 road (heading towards the col de la Schlucht) gives a bird’s-eye view over the whole lake. This elevated vantage point is one of the most photographed perspectives in the Vosges massif.
Hiking around the lake
The path along the shores is short (the full circuit is less than 3 km) and relatively flat. It is accessible for families with children from age 5-6 upwards. Walking shoes are advised as the ground can be damp in the shade of the fir trees.
From the car park, a marked path reaches the water in under 5 minutes. For the variant taking in the viewpoint, head back up to the road and follow the trail north-east for about 20 minutes of gentle climbing.
Getting there from La Bresse
From La Bresse: D34 towards Cornimont, then D417 direction Gérardmer. At Xonrupt-Longemer, follow Lac de Longemer on the D67 heading north. Retournemer appears on the left about 2 km after the end of Lac de Longemer. Journey time: about 25 minutes.
From Gérardmer: D417 to Xonrupt then D67 towards the col de la Schlucht. About 10 minutes.
Parking: free, roadside on the D67. Limited spaces. In July-August, arrive before 9am or after 5pm to find a spot easily.
What to combine
Retournemer fits naturally into a Vosges lakes circuit:
- Lac de Longemer: 2 km south, swimming and watersports allowed, 8 km lake circuit
- Saut des Cuves: waterfall on the Vologne river, 5 km away, not to be missed
- Swimming in the Vosges lakes: complete guide to choosing the right lake
- Chalets in La Bresse: the ideal base for exploring all the lakes in the massif
For a full day from La Bresse: morning at Retournemer with a hike, lunch at Xonrupt, afternoon swimming at Longemer, return via the Saut des Cuves.
Frequently asked questions
Is swimming allowed at Lac de Retournemer?
No. Lac de Retournemer is a protected natural site: swimming is forbidden. For swimming nearby, Lac de Longemer (2 km away) has supervised beaches in July-August.
How do I get to Lac de Retournemer from La Bresse?
From La Bresse, take the D34 towards Cornimont, then the D417 towards Gérardmer. Pass Lac de Longemer on the D67 and continue 2 km north. Allow about 25 minutes. A free car park is available roadside.
Is there a car park at Lac de Retournemer?
Yes, a free car park is available beside the D67 road, very close to the lake. Arrive early in summer (before 9am) to be sure of a space.
Can you fish at Lac de Retournemer?
Fishing is regulated. The lake is part of the Vosges fishing domain: a valid fishing permit from the local AAPPMA is required. Check current access conditions with the Vosges fishing federation before visiting.
What can I combine with Lac de Retournemer?
The most natural combination: Lac de Longemer (2 km, swimming and watersports), then Retournemer for the scenery, and the Saut des Cuves waterfall (5 km). These three sites make for an easy full day from La Bresse.
How long does a visit to Lac de Retournemer take?
A simple visit from the car park takes 30 to 45 minutes. For a hike around the lake and up to the viewpoint above the Schlucht road, allow 1h30 to 2h. The short forest loop is accessible to all levels.